One of the most iconic landmarks of Gijón is the Laboral Ciudad de la Cultura, situated to the east of the city center. This monumental cultural center has a history deeply intertwined with the Spanish dictatorship. Recognized as the largest civil building in Spain, it stands today as an impressive structure worthy of admiration.
Read this blog post for our tips on making the most of your visit and discovering the most beautiful spots in Laboral Ciudad de la Cultura.
Read more: Best Things to Do in Gijón
History of Laboral Ciudad de la Cultura
The history of Laboral Ciudad de la Cultura is closely linked to Franco’s Spanish dictatorship. The original building was designed by architect Luis Moya Blanco and constructed between 1946 and 1956, during Franco’s regime.
Workers’ School during the Dictatorial Regime
Initially, it was intended as a practical training school for the children of miners who had recently perished in a mining disaster. The school aimed to train them to become highly skilled professionals. Eventually, it expanded to accommodate children of other workers as well. On the surface, this workers’ school might seem beneficial. However, it was controversial because it only accepted children of workers who had fully submitted to the regime.
Laboral Ciudad de la Cultura was established as a gigantic, utopian project meant to be a self-sufficient city. Besides a school, it included dormitories, a vast church, a theater, a swimming pool, sports facilities, and a hundred-hectare farm. Students could learn farming skills on this farm, which also provided their food. Thus, it functioned more as a standalone city rather than a part of Gijón.
During the dictatorship, the Universidad Laboral was managed by Jesuits and supported by nuns, who handled daily logistics. After the dictatorship fell in the 1980s, the building fell into disrepair until the regional government of Asturias decided to renovate the complex in 2001, giving it a new purpose.
Restoration into a Cultural Center
Today, it serves as a cultural center with various functions, including a university, offices, a television station, a large theater, a café, and a restaurant. Despite modern transformations, controversial elements like the prominent regime coat of arms above the theater entrance remain, serving as a reminder of its past.
Architecture and Frescoes
Laboral Ciudad de la Cultura is the largest private building in Spain. The complex includes Europe’s largest oval church and Northern Spain’s largest theater, making it a place of superlatives. The style is classical and formal, with elements from antiquity, such as Greek columns.
The central courtyard measures 150 by 50 meters and is surrounded by arcaded galleries and buildings. One of these houses the large theater with 1,300 seats. Inside the theater, an impressive hall features massive frescoes by Enrique Segura that cover all the walls.
One of the most striking buildings within the complex is the church. Covering an area of 38 by 24 meters, it is the largest oval church in the world. The church has an impressive 2,300-ton dome, standing 32 meters high and entirely covered in marble. Interestingly, one of the saint statues along the dome is headless; it lost its head when a metal ball from the top of the structure fell on it. Today, the church is no longer used for religious purposes.
Visiting Laboral Ciudad de la Cultura
Visitors can explore the complex for free, including the buildings and the courtyard with the oval church. Walk through the gate via the Corinthian courtyard to the open patio, admire the imposing church, and stroll through the gardens. Notably, the garden’s sports complex features a creepy, dilapidated swimming pool. Be sure to visit the café, where you can enjoy a drink or a bite to eat while admiring an enormous mural.
For a more in-depth experience, guided tours are available, allowing you to see the interiors, including the theater and the reception hall. The reception hall is renowned for its extensive wall paintings by Enrique Segura, covering all the walls from floor to ceiling. You can also visit the tower, which offers spectacular views over Gijón and the surrounding mountains. Unfortunately, during our visit, the official tours were only available in Spanish.
Right next to the cultural center is the Laboral Centro de Arte y Creación Industrial, a modern art museum with rotating exhibitions, which is free to enter. Slightly further away, you will find the Botanical Garden of Gijón.
We visited Gijón once on our own and a second time at the invitation of Visit Gijón.
