A town so pretty that a king gave it to his queen as a present? It sounds like a fairy tale, but in Portugal it really happened. Óbidos is one of the most beautiful medieval towns in the country, a tangle of cobbled lanes, whitewashed houses trimmed in blue and yellow, and flowers spilling over the walls. Every corner hides another photogenic view, and above the red rooftops rises an impressive castle. It’s the kind of place where you want to wander without a plan, stop at a café terrace now and then, and feel a few centuries back in time.
We’ve been to Óbidos twice now, both times in winter and both times with little ones in tow. The first time with our daughter as a baby, the second time with a toddler and a baby. On that second visit we also checked out the famous Christmas market, which makes the town even more fairytale-like in December. In this blog we share the best things to do in Óbidos, our favourite spots and practical tips for a visit on your Portugal road trip.
How do you get to Óbidos?
Óbidos sits in central Portugal, between Lisbon and Porto. From Lisbon it makes an easy day trip, as the drive takes about an hour and a quarter. That’s also why you’ll find plenty of day tours from Lisbon, handy if you don’t have your own car or a rental car. There’s a train from Lisbon too, but it’s rather slow for a day trip, so if you go by train we’d definitely stay the night.
You can’t drive into the old centre of Óbidos unless you’re a local who lives there. Park on the edge of town by the sixteenth-century aqueduct, and you’ll be inside the walls in two minutes.
Tip: right by that car park there’s a Prio petrol station with very cheap fuel.
Where to stay in Óbidos?
A day trip is fun, but you’ll want to stay at least one night. That way you get to see the town at sunset and sunrise, which we really recommend! The ultimate place to sleep in Óbidos is of course the castle, which now houses the luxury hotel Pousada Castelo de Óbidos.
We get it if that’s not quite your budget. In that case, look for a hotel in the old centre, inside the walls or right outside them. Good picks are the Literary Man Hotel in a former convent and Torre de Maneys, another lovely historic building.
Portugal’s town of queens
People already lived around Óbidos in Roman times, but most of what you see today dates from the Middle Ages. Before that, the Moors founded a fortified town here by building a castle on the hilltop. In 1148 the Portuguese king took the town from the Moors and it became part of Portugal.
In 1210 the town became the Vila das Rainhas, the town of the queens. When the Portuguese king and his wife visited, the queen fell for the place on the spot, and the king gave it to her as a gift. From then on it belonged to the queens of Portugal. Until the sixteenth century Óbidos could count on royal gifts and visits, so the town kept growing richer and prettier. The 1755 earthquake caused a lot of damage, but luckily the finest buildings survived or could be restored.
The 10 best things to do in Óbidos
#1 Walk the town walls
The highlight of Óbidos, quite literally, is its centuries-old town wall. Finished in 1527, it became the town’s main line of defence. Where many towns only have fragments left, here the wall is complete, with battlements, staircases, gates and views through every gap. A walk along the walls is one of the best things to do in Óbidos. You can climb up in several places, and the easiest is right by the main gate.
You’ll read everywhere that you can walk all the way round, but that’s not true. Near the castle the wall is broken, so you have to go down and climb up again a bit further on. Still, walking the walls is an absolute must, with great views over Óbidos and the countryside. Skip it if you’re scared of heights though: there’s hardly any railing, and in places the wall is 13 metres high.
Tip: walk the walls around sunset to see Óbidos glowing in the golden hour.
#2 The medieval castle of Óbidos
A walled town needs a castle, and like the walls, the one in Óbidos is still standing. Built in the twelfth century, it’s a classic knight’s castle straight out of a storybook, complete with turrets, big wooden gates and battlements. Walk through the castle gate to the area behind the Castelo de Óbidos, where the medieval festival is held in July and the Christmas market in December. You’ll also find some lovely half-timbered houses here. Fancy sleeping in the castle? You can! The historic monument is now a luxury hotel.
Did you know: the Portuguese voted the castle of Óbidos one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal? So was the magnificent Monastery of Alcobaça.
#3 The Porta da Vila main gate and chapel
Most visitors enter town through the main gate, the Porta da Vila. Don’t expect a simple arch: it’s more of a fortified tower you walk through. Inside there’s an upper level where sermons were once preached, and it’s beautifully decorated, because this used to be a chapel too. The ceiling is painted, but what really catches your eye are the blue and white azulejos from 1740. The tile panels tell the story of the last hours of Jesus.
The gate has a great echo, so you’ll often find street musicians here giving your entrance a cheerful soundtrack. Once inside, you can head straight into the main street, Rua Direita. Or turn left and climb the stairs, so you can see the gate from above and start your walk along the walls. Even if the walls without railings feel a bit too exciting, it’s worth climbing up the gate for a fine view over town.
#4 Wander the lanes of the historic centre
Getting lost in the maze of lanes in the old town is one of the best things to do in Óbidos. The old town lies roughly inside the walls and isn’t big, so even though it’s a labyrinth, you won’t stay lost for long. The narrow main street is hard to miss: it runs from the main gate to the castle gate and has most of the shops and restaurants.
Do wander into the side streets too, where it’s quieter. Come early and you might have them to yourself, perfect for photos. You’ll notice straight away that nearly every house is whitewashed, as in so many hot countries, but here they add a splash of colour with yellow or blue bands painted along the bottom of the walls. Sadly the paint runs in the rain, and some visitors can’t resist dipping a finger in it to write their names on the white walls in bright blue.
#5 The Óbidos Christmas market
Portugal isn’t really a Christmas market country, but from late November to early January Óbidos goes all out with Óbidos Vila Natal. Houses are covered in lights, shops get the festive treatment and around the castle a whole Christmas village appears, with Father Christmas’s house, an ice rink, shows and games for kids. It’s one of the best-known Christmas events in the country and draws lots of Portuguese families, especially at weekends.
We went on our second visit with our toddler and baby, and it was a letdown. There just wasn’t that much to it, and it was packed. We’ve seen plenty of Christmas markets abroad and this one didn’t come close. We liked the town itself much more, as the streets are decorated for Christmas in December too. So our advice: leave it at that and simply wander through the festive lanes. Still want to go? You’ll find dates and tickets on the Visit Portugal event page.
Tip: visiting Óbidos in summer? Aim for the Mercado Medieval, about two weeks in July when the town turns into a medieval city with markets, tournaments and parades.
#6 A bookshop in a church
Óbidos has so many churches that apparently nobody minded turning one into a shop. Since 2012 the Igreja de São Tiago next to the castle gate has housed the Livraria de Santiago, and you’re free to have a look around. Bookcases now stand beside the high altar, which is quite a sight. Admittedly it’s not as spectacular as the gorgeous church bookshop in Maastricht, but it’s well worth popping in.
The bookshop was reportedly part of a plan to promote Óbidos as a literary town and draw even more visitors. It worked: in 2015 Óbidos was named a UNESCO City of Literature. If that bookish side appeals to you, you’ll probably love staying at the town’s most literary hotel, the Literary Man Hotel in a former convent.
Tip: there’s another beautiful bookshop on Rua Direita, with shelves made from old crates that give it a real historic feel.
#7 Admire the Igreja de Santa Maria
For a small town, Óbidos has a lot of churches, and many of them can be visited. The finest is without doubt the Igreja de Santa Maria, on the most central square along Rua Direita. When the Moors ruled the town, a mosque stood here, so one of the first things the Portuguese built after the conquest was a church on exactly that spot. A clear statement that the Moors were gone. Of all the churches, this one has the richest decoration, with colourful painted ceilings, a gilded and rather over-the-top altar and lots of blue and white azulejos. The church you see today dates from the sixteenth century, and the decorations are even later. A bit of royal history: the future King Afonso V married his equally young cousin Isabella here when they were both children.
#8 The aqueduct
From the main town gate, an aqueduct runs out into the countryside. It was once the main water supply of Óbidos. Built in the sixteenth century, it’s now a protected monument. A large part is still standing and even survived the 1755 earthquake, although the big car park in front doesn’t do it any favours. Further along, a section has been cut out to give cars a narrow way through to the neighbourhood behind it.
#9 The round church of Senhor Jesus da Pedra
Just outside Óbidos, but within walking distance, stands the Santuário do Senhor Jesus da Pedra, a striking church you can clearly see from the town walls. It’s well worth a visit, if only for its unusual hexagonal shape, and the baroque style makes it quite a sight too.
#10 Shop along Rua Direita
The main street of Óbidos is impossible to miss, running from the town gate to the castle gate. It’s quite narrow for a main street, but it’s where you’ll find most of the restaurants and the best little shops. Many sell the same souvenirs, but there are also plenty of boutiques with more original ideas. One we liked is the tinned fish shop at the end of the street near the castle gate, which looks gorgeous. Rua Direita also has two museums: one for modern art and one on the history of the town.
Walking down the busy street, you’ll notice that almost every shop sells the local cherry liqueur, Ginjinha de Óbidos. It’s served in a little chocolate cup and is a real local tradition.
Bonus: visit Bacalhôa Buddha Eden
Close to Óbidos you’ll find one of the most unusual places in Portugal: the Bacalhôa Buddha Eden sculpture park. If you’re in Óbidos, set aside half a day for it.
The park is the work of Portuguese billionaire José Berardo, who was shocked in 2001 when the Taliban destroyed the Buddhas of Bamiyan in Afghanistan. In response, he created a sculpture park on his wine estate, full of Buddha statues, pagodas, terracotta warriors and contemporary art. You can easily spend hours walking around. It’s one of the most remarkable attractions in Portugal, and from Óbidos you’re already close by.
→ Discover everything about Bacalhôa Buddha Eden
More tips for your trip to Óbidos
Our pickStaying the night in Óbidos? Browse all hotels in Óbidos on Booking.com
Portugal was made for road trips. Rent a car at Lisbon, Porto or Faro airport with Discover Cars and compare the big rental companies in one go.
Fancy doing it by camper, like we did? Rent a campervan in Portugal with Campervan Planet.
Prefer everything arranged? Browse Portugal tours on TourRadar.
No flight yet? Compare flights to Lisbon or Porto.
Rather not drive yourself? Join a day trip from Lisbon to Fátima, Batalha, Nazaré and Óbidos on GetYourGuide.
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