As one of the most visited and highly praised castles in France, Château de Chenonceau is not only my favorite but also a beloved destination for many visitors to the Loire Valley. Being an avid fan of castles, I find immense joy exploring the Loire region, home to hundreds of palaces. The splendor, past court intrigues, and remarkable architecture dominate this French region, where countless castles were built by powerful families and kings throughout French history.
If you’re wondering how to visit Château de Chenonceau, this blog will guide you through the process and highlight its fascinating history.
A History of Six Castle Ladies
Chenonceau is often referred to as the “Château of Six Ladies”, highlighting the six women who left their mark on the castle.
The First Lady
The first of these influential women was Catherine Briçonnet, wife of Thomas Bohier, the treasurer of the French king. She played a significant role in the construction of the original castle in the 16th century. The initials of Thomas and Catherine can still be found throughout the château.
The Mistress and the Queen: Builders of the Bridge Gallery
The castle eventually came into the possession of the French crown and King Henry II, who gifted it to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers. She connected both riverbanks with a bridge and created the extensive ornamental garden in front of the castle. Diane’s influence is evident in the interior as well, with numerous initials of her and King Henry visible throughout the château. Additionally, artworks featuring the Roman goddess Diana pay homage to this former resident.
King Henry’s wife, Catherine de’ Medici, was not pleased with this ostentatious gesture from her husband. Already distressed by her husband’s public displays with his beautiful mistress—who wore the crown jewels and was involved in state affairs—Catherine was further infuriated by the gift of this magnificent castle to her rival.
Immediately after the king’s death, Catherine banished Diane from her beloved château and even from the French court. Catherine spent a fortune to claim Diane’s love palace as her own: she expanded the castle, commissioned magnificent gardens, and built a two-story gallery over Diane’s bridge. This gallery, with its black-and-white tiled floor, became the venue for the queen’s extravagant parties.
The Widow, the Feminist, and the Benefactor
Following Catherine de’ Medici, another significant resident was her daughter-in-law Louise, who became a widow at a young age. She withdrew to Chenonceau in mourning, and the black room in the castle still commemorates the period when Louise shrouded the castle in grief.
Louise Dupin and Marguerite Pelouze are also renowned as “ladies of Chenonceau”. Louise Dupin was an enlightened and feminist woman who hosted many famous poets and philosophers here. Madame Pelouze, a wealthy woman, made Chenonceau her pet project, restoring the castle to its former medieval glory. The château became the setting for her extravagant parties, reminiscent of the grand festivities during Queen Catherine’s time.
How to Visit Chenonceau
Château de Chenonceau is one of the most visited castles in the Loire Valley, celebrated for its elegant gallery spanning the river, beautifully decorated palace rooms, royal intrigues of the past, and lovely gardens.
The Best Time to Visit Chenonceau
With busloads of visitors, it’s good to know you won’t often have Chenonceau to yourself. The famous gallery over the water can get quite crowded. For a quieter experience, it’s wise to visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon. We’ve visited the château both in the height of summer and in spring. The off-season was significantly less crowded and much more pleasant.
Tip: You can book your tickets online on the official website to avoid queuing at the castle.
Highlights of the Chateau
The castle has several unique features that make a visit especially enjoyable. Did you know you can exit on the other side of the gallery? At certain times, the door on the opposite end is open. We received a hand stamp that allowed us to re-enter and explore the other bank. The view of the château from this vantage point is stunning and particularly photogenic.
Please note that you cannot purchase tickets at the back entrance nor use pre-purchased (online) tickets to enter here. This entrance is for exiting only and allows re-entry with a hand stamp.
Did You Know: The gallery over the water was used as a hospital for soldiers during World War I, housing 120 beds and an operating room equipped with one of the first X-ray machines of the time. During World War II, the river and this gallery marked the boundary between occupied and free France.
Equally fascinating is the chance to explore the castle kitchens. Located deep in the château’s cellars, just above the water, these large kitchens are well-preserved—or restored, of course—and are a highlight of the visit. A bridge over the water connects the two kitchen sections, and through the windows, you can enjoy a beautiful view of the river and beneath the castle. If you look carefully, you’ll also see a door through which supplies were brought in from the water.
Tip: Children can get an activity booklet to make the castle visit more engaging. Our toddler was too young for this (and our baby had no interest in the castle at all). We kept her entertained by having her find the initials of all the residents on the floors, fireplaces, and ceiling beams.
Other Attractions on the Castle Grounds
The château estate offers more than just the castle itself. For children, the animals and the maze are particularly delightful.
The estate also features beautiful ornamental gardens: the Garden of Diane de Poitiers and the Garden of Catherine de’ Medici. Diane, the king’s mistress, created a stunning garden at her château. After the king’s death, the jealous Queen Catherine took over the castle and also created an ornamental garden. Interestingly, Catherine’s garden is much smaller than Diane’s, meaning she couldn’t outdo her rival.
You can also visit an old farm, historical carriages, a wine cellar, a beautiful apothecary, a vegetable garden, and a flower garden. During your tour of the castle rooms, you might notice how beautifully they are decorated with large flower arrangements. We were told that all these flowers come from the château’s own gardens.
Parking at Chenonceau
Chenonceau can get very busy, especially in the summer months. Therefore, spring and autumn are better times to visit the castle. The château offers free parking, including spacious spots for campers and electric charging points.
Bucket List Activity: Hot Air Balloon Ride Over Chenonceau
Want to see Chenonceau from a unique perspective? Book a hot air balloon ride over the Loire! This dream activity was one of the highlights of our Loire Valley vacation.
Flying in a hot air balloon is a dream for many people, and it’s even more magical at this special destination! The region features a beautiful green landscape crisscrossed by the Loire and its tributaries, dotted with dozens of fairytale castles and palaces. Shortly after takeoff, Château de Chenonceau emerged from behind the trees.
We ascended to 750 meters, floated at that height for a while, and then climbed to an impressive 1,000 meters. The view was breathtaking, and the peace and quiet at that altitude were extraordinary. There was nothing around us but empty space, although we did see a handful of other hot air balloons at various heights in the sky.
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