On two occasions (2019 and 2024), we ventured into the heart of Meknès in Marocco, each visit leaving us with a sense of unmet expectations from this extensively lauded destination. Meknès is celebrated as one of Morocco’s illustrious Imperial Cities, but it somehow didn’t live up to the hype for us. Its sights were less impressive than expected, and the city itself wasn’t as beautiful as we’d hoped. However, it’s fair to say that Meknès also weaves a unique charm, delivering an experience steeped in authenticity, and thus, holds the potential to be a rewarding visit for those seeking the road less traveled.
In this blog, we unfold our honest and unfiltered reflections on Meknès, aiming to equip you with a nuanced perspective to weigh its place in your Moroccan journey. However, echoing the sentiment of our blog’s title, we lean towards recommending a reconsideration of Meknès as a pivotal stop in your Moroccan escapade.
How to get to Meknès in Morocco?
Meknès is cradled in the north-central heartland of Morocco, forming an integral part of the Fès-Meknès region. The closest gateway to international visitors is the Fès-Saïss Airport in Fez, lying in proximity, about 60 kilometers away.
Around Meknès, there are several interesting places to visit, like the historic city of Fez, the beautiful Ifrane, and the ancient Roman ruins of Volubilis. Thanks to good train services, it’s easy to get to Meknès from big cities like Casablanca, Rabat, and Marrakech, making it a convenient addition to any Moroccan travel itinerary.
Meknès, one of the Imperial Cities
Elevated to the ranks of one of Morocco’s four Imperial Cities – a prestigious circle also embracing Fez, Rabat, and Marrakech – Meknès is steeped in royal history. This distinction was historically bestowed upon cities chosen as capitals by Morocco’s monarchs. The narrative of Meknès is intimately linked with the reign of Sultan Moulay Ismaïl (1672–1727), under whose vision Meknès blossomed from a modest town into a resplendent capital.
As the heartbeat of an Imperial City, Meknès thrived as the center of political and administrative life. It was also the sultan’s home, necessitating a palace of grandeur that matched Sultan Moulay Ismaïl’s royal aspirations. Embarking on a construction odyssey of epic proportions, the sultan set in motion the creation of a palace complex so grandiose, that its completion eluded his 55-year reign. This era witnessed Meknès’s metamorphosis, adorned with a grand palace complex, formidable fortifications, and majestic gates.
After the sultan’s death, Morocco faced turmoil, and Meknès suffered. It lost its status as the capital, was neglected, and fell into decay. The devastating Lisbon earthquake of 1755 further marred the cityscape, casting much of Meknès into ruins. The local people started to build homes within the ruins of the palace complex, blending them into the city’s fabric.
Despite its ups and downs, Meknès’s role as an Imperial City and the remnants of its golden age still attract visitors. The old palace complex, with its gates, walls, and ruins, is now a UNESCO World Heritage site, inviting travelers to explore its historical depth and resilience.
Where to stay in Meknès
In the heart of the ancient Imperial City, nestled within both its vibrant medina and close to the royal monuments, you’ll find Meknès’s most splendid riads. These serene retreats, with their tranquil courtyards, sometimes feature breathtaking rooftop terraces or pools, offering a perfect respite from the medina’s lively streets.
#1 Riad El Ma stands out as a remarkably authentic and possibly the most enchanting riad in Meknès. Picture a captivating garden courtyard, adorned with Moroccan details, complemented by a sun terrace, a seasonal outdoor swimming pool, and an inviting restaurant that promises a delightful culinary journey.
#2 Riad Le Petit Ksar provides a charming accommodation option near the heart of Meknès’s central square. Its standout feature is undoubtedly the rooftop terrace, which offers panoramic views over the city, allowing guests to soak in the city views from a serene vantage point.
#3 Riad Yacout, a sanctuary of peace amid the vibrant chaos of Meknès, occupies a historical building dating back to 1830. It features a serene patio with a decorative pond, a traditional hammam for relaxation, a restaurant offering local delicacies, and a solarium on the terrace that provides stunning views over the ancient city walls.
#4 Dar Meknes Tresor is acclaimed as one of Meknès’s finest accommodations. It earns rave reviews for its authentic Moroccan ambiance, the breathtaking views from its rooftop terrace, and its prime medina location, making it a favorite among guests.
The 10 most visited sights of Meknès
#1 Place El Hedim
The vibrant heart of Meknès beats in Place El Hedim, also known as Lahdim Square. This spot is often likened to a smaller version of the famous square in Marrakech, and just like its Marrakech counterpart, it bursts into life as the sun sets. Originally cleared by Moulay Ismail to give everyone a clear view of Bab El Mansour, today, it’s the buzzing center of the medina, especially lively at night.
It’s a favorite spot for families to soak in the atmosphere, with kids having fun in toy cars and, though less appealing, some animal acts. For those who find it a bit too lively but still want to catch the vibe, the rooftops around the square offer a perfect getaway. You’re still part of the excitement but away from the hustle.
Next to the square, the market hall charms visitors with its stalls full of spices and olives. However, as vegetarians, we find the butcher section less appealing. On our second visit, we were a bit disappointed to see the square closed for renovation, which was unfortunate.
#2 Bab Mansour
Surrounded by about 2.5 kilometers of stunning city walls, Bab Mansour stands as the jewel in Meknès’s crown. This gate, at the edge of Place El Hedim, is nothing short of a historical gem.
Ordered by Sultan Moulay Ismail, it showcases the grandeur of his reign with its beautiful zellij tiles and grand inscriptions. There’s a legend that the gate’s architect, Mansour Laalej, nearly faced death for his breathtaking work – a testament to its impressiveness.
On our second visit in 2024, we found the gate unfortunately closed, hidden behind a canvas due to renovations. But our first impression of Bab Mansour was so striking that we absolutely had to mention this landmark in our blog. It’s a piece of architectural beauty not to be missed in Meknès.
#3 Moulay Ismail Mausoleum
Visiting the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail was a highlight of our time in Meknès. Initially, we were met with closed doors due to renovations, but on our second trip, we were treated to the sight of the mausoleum in all its restored beauty. We had read that previously, non-Muslims could only explore the courtyards, but luckily, after the renovations, almost all areas were open to us.
The mausoleum is the final resting place of Moulay Ismail, the sultan who gave Meknès its imperial splendor. It’s a marvel of Islamic art, featuring stunning doors, mosaics, wood carvings, and more, displaying the architectural beauty Morocco is renowned for. Plus, with free entry, it’s definitely a must-see.
#4 The Meknès Medina
Frankly, the medina of Meknès didn’t quite capture our hearts, especially when compared to the medinas in Fez or Marrakech. It’s filled with winding, narrow streets but lacks the unique charm and attractions found elsewhere.
Most shops offer everyday items, from shoes to household goods, with an abundance of less appealing trinkets and plastic items. It surprised us how many shops sold the exact same things.
The medina is a labyrinth, similar to the more picturesque ones in other cities, with hidden beautiful doors or fountains suggesting a nearby mosque. Despite its lack of variety and some dilapidated areas, the authentic experience and maze-like feel make it worth exploring. It provides an intriguing peek into daily life in Meknès, an experience not to be missed.
The medina is most chaotic and busy in the evening. However, seeking tranquility in the morning might leave you wandering nearly deserted streets. We found early afternoon the best time to explore the souks and medina.
#5 Dar Jamai Museum
The Dar Jamai Museum is home to an impressive collection of ceramics, jewelry, textiles, and particularly musical instruments. Yet, it’s the Andalusian garden and the museum’s stunning architecture that truly captivate visitors. Essentially, the museum itself, with its beauty, is as much a draw as the exhibits it houses.
Originally the residence of the influential Jamaï family, the building became a museum after changing hands several times following the death of Sultan Moulay Al Hassan I, when the Jamaï family lost favor. Open to the public since 1920, it’s a must-visit for architecture enthusiasts.
While the exhibits are well-presented – and our toddler enjoyed the authentic music videos – it’s the museum’s architecture that we recommend the most. The colorful mosaics, detailed woodwork, and beautiful arches are a feast for the eyes. The exhibits are certainly worth your attention, but the architectural details are likely to be what you remember most.
#6 Bou Inania Madrasa
Almost every destination in Morocco boasts a madrasa, an ancient Quranic school, and Meknès is no exception. Right across from the Grande Mosquée, you’ll find the Bou Inania Madrasa, the smaller counterpart of the one in Fez. This madrasa is celebrated for its stunning architecture, making it one of the highlights in Meknès.
Built in 1358, this Quranic school showcases the exquisite Merinid architecture. It might not be as grand as the Fez version, but its beauty is undeniable. With its classic zellige tiles, fine plasterwork, and cedarwood ceilings, it’s a dream for photographers. What’s really cool is that you can visit the student rooms, giving you a peek into the school’s past life.
#7 Habs Qara Prison
Beneath Meknès lies the Habs Qara prison, an underground maze. Though the idea might sound fascinating, we found it less impressive than expected. Sultan Moulay Ismail built this series of underground chambers in the 18th century. Often called a prison, it was probably more of a storage space.
The vaulted corridors underground are interesting to wander through but don’t top our list of must-sees in Meknès. The visit lacks substance, and there’s not much info on what the place was all about, making its rather high entrance fee (for Morocco) not quite worth it. You might want to skip this one.
#8 Heri es-Souani (Royal Stables) and Agdal Basin
The Heri es-Souani, or Royal Stables, and the Agdal Basin were ambitious projects by Sultan Moulay Ismail in Meknès. Rumor has it the stables could house 12,000 horses, and the basin was part of a clever irrigation system. However, what’s often called the ‘Royal Stables’ was likely a granary, which admittedly doesn’t sound as exciting.
In reality, this site is more ruins than anything else. Much of the Sultan’s palace was destroyed in the Lisbon earthquake of 1755, with only parts of the stables surviving. The visit doesn’t offer much, and there’s little to learn about the Sultan’s building efforts, making us feel the Royal Stables aren’t worth the entry fee.
#9 Moulay Idriss
Near Meknès is Moulay Idriss, a famous pilgrimage site for Muslims. It was home to Moulay Idriss, a great-grandson of Prophet Mohammed and the founder of Morocco. The town sits on two hilltops, and heading up to the viewpoint for a panoramic view is a must.
For a long time, non-Muslims couldn’t enter this holy city, a rule that relaxed only in 1916. You still can’t visit the tomb and mosque if you’re not Muslim, but the town itself is open. To us, the town wasn’t overly exciting, except for the stunning views from the viewpoint. While Moulay Idriss alone might not be a must-visit, it’s close to Volubilis, making the two together a worthwhile day trip from Meknès.
#10 Volubilis
Volubilis is an archaeological gem known for its stunning mosaic floors. What makes this ancient Roman city truly special, though, is its unique location in Morocco, earning it a spot on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
This old city thrived on the wealth from olive oil production under Roman rule. Only half of Volubilis has been uncovered so far. The arch, basilica, and temples are impressive, but the mosaic floors in the houses and palaces steal the show.
The House of Orpheus, once a palace, now attracts visitors with its dining room floor mosaic depicting Orpheus playing the lute surrounded by animals. Nearby, the House of Venus and other homes also feature beautiful mosaics. With the stunning landscape around, it’s clear why we recommend a visit to Volubilis.
So, is Meknès worth visiting?
Is Meknès worth your time? We think it might not be essential
Our visits to Meknès left us with mixed feelings. While we found some charming spots and beautiful monuments, Meknès doesn’t quite stand up to cities like Fez, Rabat, or Marrakech. It has an authentic vibe but lacks the magical atmosphere of the other Imperial Cities. If you’re short on time, you might want to skip Meknès. But if you’ve got time to spare, why not explore and see what Meknès has to offer?
