Morocco is a land of contrasts that evokes a wide range of opinions among travelers. Some recount tales of woe, while others are spellbound, sharing stories of a magical journey. Our experience lies somewhere in between, and we’re excited to share more about it in this blog.
Our journeys through Morocco spanned two weeks initially, followed by an additional five weeks, immersing us in the country’s unique allure. Despite our enthusiasm, we cannot overlook the aspects of Morocco that cast a shadow over its charm. We’re eager to share not only our critiques but also emphasize that these did not deter us from revisiting. Indeed, we wholeheartedly recommend Morocco as a destination worth exploring. Let’s dive into the details.
Morocco’s ugly sides
#1 The Waste Issue
One of the first things you might notice in Morocco is the striking difference between its natural beauty and the unfortunate reality of pollution. Trash seems to be everywhere, taking away from the country’s otherwise picturesque landscapes. This issue is especially noticeable in natural areas, where litter feels out of place and sad.
Seeing Morocco’s beautiful places littered with garbage is a stark reminder of the environmental challenges facing the country. It’s disheartening to witness animals living among waste, a sight that clashes with our love for nature. Our privileged, European background may make us more sensitive to these issues, but the visible pollution undeniably lessens Morocco’s natural allure.
#2 Hygiene
For many travelers, Morocco’s approach to hygiene can be startling. The condition of public restrooms, the presentation of food, and the ubiquity of flies may diverge sharply from what you’re accustomed to. Discovering sweets swarmed by insects or meat exposed to the scorching sun can be jarring. As vegetarians, we took solace in not having to fret over the freshness of meat, a silver lining in our culinary adventures.
It’s crucial to approach these differences with an open mind, balancing caution with the willingness to embrace new experiences. Finding comfort in thoroughly cooked meals, like the aromatic tajine, became our strategy for navigating the culinary landscape, alongside a preference for the privacy of our camper’s restroom over public facilities.
#3 Dual Sides of Moroccan Hospitality
Moroccan hospitality presents a fascinating paradox. On the bright side, we were embraced by countless warm and helpful locals, making us feel incredibly welcomed, almost as if we were home. Yet, there’s another side where hospitality seemed tinged with insincerity, driven more by the prospect of financial benefit than genuine kindness.
Imagine wandering through the maze-like medina of Fez, only to find yourself shadowed by an ‘unofficial guide’ helping you to find your way after ‘getting lost’. Such assistance, unsurprisingly, comes with an unsolicited fee. Interestingly, getting genuinely lost isn’t necessary for this experience; some locals actively try to convince you you’re lost, with claims like ‘the road is closed!’ or ‘that’s not the way to the medina, there’s nothing to see!’ Equally, vendors might spend precious moments engaging with our children, showering them with attention, all as a strategy to warm us up for a sales pitch.
These encounters blur the lines between true hospitality and mere friendliness with ulterior motives. For instance, a local in Skoura warmly invited us for tea and even suggested we park our camper by his house overnight. However, his eagerness to show us around Skoura raised our suspicions. While it’s possible we overreacted, we also wonder if we missed out on a genuine gesture of hospitality.
#4 Police scams
Encountering young men attempting to scam you is one thing, but facing the police on Moroccan roads is an entirely different game. Despite hearing about police scams, nothing could have prepared us for their severity.
On a road where the limit was 80 km/h, we found ourselves behind a car that kept slowing down, eventually leading to a crawl on a straight stretch, with a queue of frustrated drivers behind us. When we decided to overtake, despite a solid line indicating it was prohibited, we walked right into a setup: the slow-moving car was part of a police scheme designed to catch drivers out. They even captured a photo of our maneuver to justify stopping us further down the road. Initially faced with a 400 dirham fine (about 40 euros), we managed to negotiate it down to 100 dirham (10 euros).
Subsequent encounters with similar setups taught us to be more cautious. The next time, we patiently followed a slow-moving car for miles, determined to avoid another encounter with the police. Another time, we waited to overtake until the road markings allowed, yet the police still stopped us. This led to a lengthy debate and the temporary confiscation of our passports, leaving us anxious and stressed. Eventually, we were allowed to continue, but the unease lingered.
Awareness of the numerous police checkpoints is key. While most are straightforward, allowing drivers to proceed without issue, it’s crucial to fully stop at roadblocks and wait for a clear signal to move on to avoid fines.
Our advice: respect the road markings, always stop fully at police signs, be mindful of speed cameras and radar, negotiate fines where possible, and asking for a written ticket might help them lower the fine.
#5 Intrusiveness
Dealing with intrusiveness is perhaps the most challenging aspect of visiting Morocco. On our first trip, the relentless attention from vendors, guides, and others was so overwhelming it sometimes dimmed the beauty of our destinations. We found ourselves more preoccupied with dodging these interactions than soaking in the wonders around us.
However, equipped with our initial experiences, our second visit felt different. Although the persistent approaches and calls were still there, they were less dominant. This time, the positive exchanges far outnumbered the negative, allowing us to fully embrace and enjoy Morocco without a lingering sense of discomfort.
#6 Shopping Without Price Tags
Embarking on a shopping journey in Morocco is a unique adventure, vastly different from the convenience we’re accustomed to. Supermarkets do exist but are fewer and farther between, nudging you towards the vibrant local markets and quaint, slightly timeworn shops where price tags are a rarity.
This calls for a proactive approach: always ask for the price before making a purchase to avoid surprises. Imagine buying some bread, which usually costs 1 or 2 dirhams (only 10 to 20 eurocents), being quoted at 20 dirhams! It’s moments like these when not having the item in hand allows you to graciously decline and explore other options.
Despite this, shopping in Morocco usually feels more like a delightful immersion into local life than a chore. It’s an authentic slice of Moroccan culture. That said, after navigating this process multiple times daily over 5 weeks, the return to the straightforwardness of price tags in Europe was a comforting change.
Souvenir shopping escalates this experience. It’s typical to face steep initial prices, with negotiation not just a tactic but a necessity to land a fair price. In some instances, the price can plummet to just 10% of the original quote.
We must admit, the art of negotiation isn’t something we relish, especially since souvenirs aren’t really our thing. Yet, in Morocco, mastering the art of bargaining becomes part of the shopping adventure, essential for those souvenir hunts.
#7 Animal Welfare
Witnessing the plight of stray animals and the use of animals as tourist attractions in Morocco touches us deeply. The sight of skinny horses toiling under the sun pulling carts through Marrakech, an ostrich in Meknes posed for photos, or snake charmers in the bustling square of Marrakech, tugs at our hearts.
These moments highlight the delicate balance between tradition, tourism, and the well-being of animals. Our stance is clear: animals should never be exploited for entertainment. We champion ethical tourism, though we acknowledge the nuanced tradition of for example using camels in the desert by Bedouins. The distinction becomes murkier – compared to the distressing use of an ostrich for photo ops in Meknes.
The endorsement of animal tourism by many travel influencers and bloggers, such as the heavily promoted horse-drawn carriage rides in Meknes, often overlooks the animals’ poor conditions. This is our plea for mindfulness about engaging with animal-based attractions, urging informed and compassionate choices.
Yet, Don’t Be Deterred
Sharing our experiences, both positive and negative, aims to provide a realistic picture of what it means to explore Morocco. Our focus on the challenges encountered should not overshadow our deep affection for this country. Don’t let these insights deter you from discovering this incredible destination.
Morocco is also a land of stunning landscapes — from vast deserts to lush palm oases to magical mountain regions — and remarkable architecture. The weather is delightful, especially in the winter months when we visited, offering a stark contrast to the most countries in Europe. Consider the hospitality, fresh produce, unique cuisine, rich culture, and the entirely different atmosphere, and you’ll understand why we encourage you to embark on your own Moroccan adventure.
