Between Faro and Tavira in the Algarve lies the Parque Natural da Ria Formosa, one of the most beautiful places in Portugal. Where the western Algarve is all about orange cliffs and coves, east of Faro you’ll find a maze of water, islands and peninsulas. There’s a reason the Portuguese voted the Ria Formosa one of the seven natural wonders of their country. In this blog we explain how to visit this huge nature park and share three walking routes through its most beautiful landscapes.
We’ve been here twice, both times in winter: first with our baby daughter, then with our toddler daughter and baby son. Both times we walked the Ludo Trail and enjoyed the beach on Ilha de Faro, the island by the airport that you can reach over a bridge.
→ Discover the 15 best hiking trails in the Algarve
A maze of water and islands
If you’re after a beach in this part of the Algarve, you’ll first have to find your way through this maze of water and islands. The beaches here are idyllic and much quieter than in the rest of the Algarve, but for us they’re not the main event. You come to the Ria Formosa for the landscape. If you love nature, you’re in exactly the right place.
A lagoon full of salt marshes
The Ria Formosa is a lagoon between the mainland and the sea, full of islands, salt marshes, sandbanks, dunes, pink lakes and old salt pans. It’s home to a huge number of bird species. There are five large islands (Ilha da Barreta, Ilha da Culatra, Ilha da Armona, Ilha de Tavira and Ilha de Cabanas) and two peninsulas. Because they lie so close to the coast, the area reminded us a little of the Wadden Islands back home in the Netherlands.
Spotting flamingos
We’re no bird experts, but anyone can recognise a flamingo. And you’ll see plenty of them here, often right next to the walking paths. Beyond that we mostly spotted ducks, storks and, with a bit of effort, a spoonbill. Luckily there are signs throughout the park, especially in the bird hides, showing which birds you can expect to see.
The pink lakes of the Algarve
The pink lakes are something special too. Pink? Absolutely! Alongside fishing, salt production used to be a major source of income here. Seawater was collected in shallow basins, where it evaporates and leaves the salt behind. The more water evaporates, the higher the concentration of salt and minerals, and that’s what turns the water pink. Next to the pans you’ll see huge mounds of white salt that you could easily mistake for piles of snow.
How do you visit the Ria Formosa?
The Ria Formosa is enormous and has no single entrance or gate: you explore the park from lots of different places and in lots of different ways. Walking, cycling and taking the ferry are the best options. And if you want to learn more about the wildlife, head out with a guide.
How do you get to the islands of the Ria Formosa?
Because the Ria Formosa is so watery, there are plenty of ferries. From Faro you can easily hop over to the islands south of the city, with their little villages and quiet beaches. You can reach Ilha de Tavira by ferry from Tavira, or on foot over the bridge at Praia do Barril. We skipped the ferries ourselves. Ilha de Faro is reachable by car too: right by the airport, a bridge takes you straight onto the island and Praia de Faro.
Is a boat trip through the Ria Formosa worth it?
A ferry takes you to one island. If you want to see the area from the water and visit several islands, a boat trip is a great idea. You could explore the Ria Formosa on a catamaran tour past the islands, or spend two hours on a private sailing boat. Prefer something more active? Then paddle through the park on this kayak trip.
In summer you even have a chance of seeing dolphins off the coast. On this boat trip you head out from the nature park to spot them, and with a bit of luck you might even see whales or orcas.
Can you cycle and hike in the Ria Formosa?
The nature park is perfect for walking and cycling. Cycling here is a joy, because the area is so flat. From Faro you can book a guided bike tour, where your guide tells you more about the area along the way. Not much of a cyclist? There’s also a Segway tour from Faro.
We love hiking, and the Ria Formosa is a great place for it. The park has several short walking routes, and we did three of them, which you’ll find further down. Only have time for one walk? Choose the Ludo Trail near Faro. It shows you the very best of the park. We walked it twice and loved it both times.
Should you go with or without a guide?
A guide can teach you a lot about the special wildlife of the Ria Formosa. We noticed ourselves that we only really started to appreciate the area once we knew more about the birds, the salt pans and the landscape. Since it’s all about water birds here, a guided birdwatching tour is a good choice.
Where to stay for the Ria Formosa?
The Ria Formosa is so big that the best base depends on what you want to see. For the Ludo Trail and Ilha de Faro, Faro is the handiest. Tavira is perfect for the Barril Beach Trail and Ilha de Tavira. And Olhão, in between, is ideal for the visitor centre and the ferries to Culatra and Armona.
→ Discover the best things to do in Faro Old Town
→ Discover the 10 best things to do in Tavira
Hiking in the Ria Formosa
#1 Ludo Trail and São Lourenço Trail: flamingos and pink salt pans near Faro
Just west of Faro, near the airport and Praia de Faro, lies one of the most beautiful and popular parts of the Ria Formosa. Two walking routes run through it: the Ludo Trail and the São Lourenço Trail. Why they’re two separate routes is a bit of a mystery to us, because they join up and form a perfect loop together. So our first tip is to combine them.
The Ludo Trail mainly follows the salt marshes, while the São Lourenço Trail winds more through the trees and along the golf courses. São Lourenço itself is a large villa resort with lots of golf courses, where you can book a villa via Trivago. Along this part of the route there are two bird hides. One looks out over a pond and a golf course, the other, where the two trails meet, over a salt marsh. That second one is far more interesting. Look out for the Roman ruins along the route too: saltwater basins where the Romans once salted fish.
Tip: while you’re in the area, pop into the church of São Lourenço de Matos, where blue and white azulejo tiles cover every inch of the interior.
We liked the stretch along the Ludo paths best. You walk through a watery landscape full of water birds, and both times we saw flamingos in several places. The route also takes you past salt flats, pink lakes and enormous mounds of white salt. A really photogenic part of the park, and noticeably quieter than the marshes.
You can start the walk in two places: at the car park in São Lourenço (here) or at the one towards Praia de Faro (here). If you don’t have a rental car, which we really do recommend in the Algarve, start at the second one: there’s a bus stop with a direct bus to Faro. An Uber from Faro works too. Whichever starting point you pick, you’re walking more or less a loop anyway.
We parked at Praia de Faro and also spent a few nights there in our campervan, in January 2022 and December 2023. It was one of our favourite free camping spots in Portugal. As long as you don’t behave like you’re camping, it wasn’t a problem in our experience. Do always check the current motorhome and camping rules and the latest reviews on Park4Night for the situation on the ground.
Want to make the walk even longer? The São Lourenço Trail continues into the Quinta do Lago Boardwalk.
Tip: these trails are among the few flat walking paths in the Algarve, so they’re doable with a pushchair or wheelchair too.
#2 Barril Beach Trail: over the bridge to the anchor graveyard
You can reach Ilha de Tavira without a ferry too, at Praia do Barril. The Barril Beach Trail runs from the car park over a footbridge to the beach. A little tourist train also runs alongside the path, for anyone who can’t face the walk. In the summer heat we completely get it. But if you’ve got the energy, go on foot.
Tip: the walk and Praia do Barril are even more beautiful at sunset.
The Barril Beach Trail is short: about 3 kilometres there and back. You walk past salt marshes and dunes to a gorgeous stretch of beach, so you see a lot of the best of the Ria Formosa in a short time. Make sure you look out for the Cemitério das Âncoras, the anchor graveyard lying along the shore. It’s a reminder of the fishing village that once stood here. They aren’t boat anchors: the fishermen used them to fix their tuna nets to the seabed. When the tuna in Portuguese waters started running out, they had to give up their trade. Their anchors have stayed on the beach ever since.
#3 Nature Discovery Trail: a tide mill and bird hides near Olhão
Near the fishing town of Olhão you’ll find the Centro de Educação Ambiental de Marim, the nature park’s visitor centre on the Quinta de Marim estate. You pay a small entrance fee, which also lets you walk the trail around the grounds. That short hike is the real reason to come here. You walk past marshes full of water birds, including flamingos, through pine trees, along a lake and across the dunes. Along the way you’ll pass bird hides, Roman ruins and an old water pump that was once powered by a donkey.
Don’t miss the Moinho de Maré de Marim, a mill powered by the tides. There used to be dozens of tide mills like this in the Ria Formosa, and this is the only one left. On some days you can go inside.
Tip: make time for Olhão itself too. And be sure to stop at Figo de Pita, a lovely, laid-back spot for breakfast, brunch and lunch.
