A red castle on top of the hill, whitewashed houses climbing up the slope and a stork’s nest on almost every roof. That’s Silves, the oldest town in the Algarve. Down on the coast it’s all beaches and cliffs, but here you wander through steep little streets inside the old town walls, past a red sandstone cathedral and a castle from the days of the Moors.
We’ve walked those streets twice. The first time was in 2022, with our baby daughter. Almost two years later we were back, this time with our toddler daughter and baby son, and we took the exact same photo in the exact same spot, only now with two little ones in it. It was just before Christmas and the whole town was strung with lights. An afternoon is plenty for Silves, although we were happy to linger a little longer. In this blog you’ll find our tips for your visit and the best things to do in Silves.
Practical Tips for Visiting Silves
Where is Silves?
Unlike most of the Algarve’s highlights, Silves isn’t on the coast but a little way inland. The town sits on a hill above the Arade river, which flows into the sea at the fishing village of Ferragudo and Portimão. So you’re never far from the beach: Ferragudo is a 20-minute drive, Albufeira half an hour and Faro airport about 45 minutes.
How do you get to Silves?
With a rental car you’re there in no time, and it’s easy to combine Silves with a day on the coast. Silves also has a train station, although it’s a little way out of town. Prefer to have everything arranged? Most beach resorts offer day trips to Silves too.
Where to stay in Silves?
An afternoon is enough to see the castle and the old town, so most people visit Silves as a day trip from the coast. Fancy staying the night, perhaps to see Silves in the evening once the day-trippers have left? These four places get excellent reviews from guests.
#1 Casa Riad Yasmin sits right in the old town, a minute’s walk from the cathedral. There’s a pool, and several rooms have a balcony looking out over the rooftops of Silves. If you want to explore on foot, it doesn’t get any handier than this.
#2 Ponte Romana is a small guesthouse at the foot of the old town, close to the Roman bridge. Every room has a balcony or terrace with views of the town, and guests rave about the breakfast and the warm welcome from the owners.
#3 Quinta Tapada do Gramacho is a bed and breakfast a few kilometres from the centre, surrounded by greenery. You get a pool, a big garden and a breakfast buffet. Ideal if you spend your days exploring the Algarve and want some peace and quiet in the evening.
#4 Quinta das Piteiras is a rural quinta just outside Silves, with an outdoor pool, a large garden and a homemade breakfast that guests can’t stop talking about.
Travelling by campervan? Silves itself has two large paid motorhome sites, but we wouldn’t pick those. We parked our van at Quinta da Pega, just outside town, on a farmer’s land among the fruit trees. Blissfully quiet.
When is the best time to visit Silves?
You can visit Silves all year round. Summers in the Algarve get seriously hot, so spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons for wandering around. We went in January and in December, and we’d recommend that too: during the day we strolled through the streets without a coat. In December the town is fully in the Christmas spirit, with lights and decorations everywhere. From early December to early January, Silves Alegria do Natal takes over the Praça Al-Mutamid square, with stalls, performances and activities for kids.
August has its appeal too. That’s when the Feira Medieval de Silves takes place, a medieval festival that runs for just over a week. The whole town travels back in time, with a daily parade, market stalls, concerts and shows. Just bear in mind that it’s very hot and very busy then.
Best Things to Do in Silves
#1 Castelo de Silves: the largest castle in the Algarve
You can see the castle of Silves towering over the hilltop from miles away. The red sandstone fortress is an impressive sight and was clearly built to scare off enemies. The Algarve has other forts, but none of them come close to the size of the Castelo de Silves.
The castle dates from the time when the Moors ruled this part of Europe. Silves was then the capital of the Algarve, perched strategically on a hill by the river. A capital deserves a castle, and that red fortress still dominates the skyline today. That’s why it’s also known as the Castelo dos Mouros: the castle of the Moors.
Sadly, not much has survived inside the walls. These days it’s mostly a garden, and not a very exciting one. The water reservoirs are more interesting: these cisterns were once connected to the river and were the town’s main water supply. The real highlight, quite literally, is a walk along the castle walls, with sweeping views over the countryside and the Arade river. Keep an eye on the roofs and towers of the old town too, because you’ll spot dozens of stork nests. We’d never seen so many in one place.
#2 Silves viewpoint: the best view from across the river
Oddly enough, Silves may look its best from outside the town. As you drive in, you can see straight away how the old town is built against the hill, with that red castle on top. For the best picture, cross the Arade river: on the other side there’s a viewpoint by the road where you can pull over for a photo.
#3 Sé de Silves: a red sandstone cathedral
The cathedral is another place where you can see the mark the Moors left on Silves. They built a large mosque on this spot, as befits a capital. When the Moors were finally driven out in the thirteenth century, it was turned into a cathedral. After centuries of rebuilding, there’s no trace of the mosque left to recognise.
The Sé de Silves stands right next to the castle, and you can tell at once that they’re built from the same red sandstone. From the outside it’s one of the most striking monuments in town. Inside, the cathedral is rather plain.
#4 The old town: steep streets inside the town walls
The historic centre lies inside the old town walls. Once upon a time, this little area was the entire town. Because Silves is built on a hill, you’ll be walking up and down steep, narrow cobbled streets, past flowers, stately houses and snug little alleys. A small maze, and a very photogenic one.
#5 Cruz de Portugal: the mysterious cross
Just outside the old town you’ll find one of Silves’ more unusual icons. The Cruz de Portugal stands on a square under a canopy, sheltered from sun and rain. The three-metre cross has been a national monument since 1910. We didn’t find the cross itself all that impressive, but the mystery around it is intriguing. According to the information board, nobody knows where it came from or how it ended up here. It’s carved from white limestone, which isn’t found in the Algarve. So whatever its story, it isn’t from around here.
