You’ve likely heard of Mont-Saint-Michel in France, where the island is only accessible at low tide, or maybe St. Michael’s Mount in Cornwall, England. Well, Spain has its own tidal island, tucked along its northern coast!
In the picturesque fishing village of Lekeitio, you can walk across the exposed causeway to Isla de San Nicolás (or Isla de Garraitz in Basque) when the tide is low. This unforgettable experience is one of the most fun and unique things to do in northern Spain, and it’s an absolute must-see during your visit to the Basque Country.
Where is Lekeitio in Spain?
Lekeitio is tucked away along Spain’s rugged and dramatic northern coastline, in the province of Biscay (Bizkaia in Basque), within the breathtaking Basque Country. This picturesque fishing village sits in a sheltered bay, surrounded by rolling green hills and the wild, untamed coastline, where the Lea River flows into the Cantabrian Sea. It offers the perfect escape for travelers in search of a unique and authentic Spanish experience, far from the usual tourist hotspots.
The charming town lies between Bilbao and San Sebastián, two of the Basque Country’s most celebrated cities. Bilbao, the region’s largest city, is renowned for the Guggenheim Museum, an architectural marvel that houses an impressive collection of contemporary art.
On the other hand, San Sebastián is famous for its stunning beaches, like La Concha, and its sophisticated culinary scene. The city effortlessly blends elegant boulevards, historic architecture, and a vibrant atmosphere, making it one of Spain’s most romantic and enchanting destinations.
Just a short distance from Lekeitio, the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve provides a sanctuary for nature lovers. This UNESCO-recognized area is teeming with biodiversity and natural beauty, boasting lush forests, peaceful estuaries, and serene sandy beaches.
From Whaling Tradition to Beach Destination
Lekeitio, with its rich fishing heritage, still boasts a quaint harbor, but today it is best known as a delightful beach destination.
In the Middle Ages, Lekeitio earned fame for its whale hunters. For centuries, whaling was at the heart of the town’s economy and daily life, just like in many other Basque coastal communities. However, as time went on, the whales began to vanish, and by the 18th century, the tradition came to an end.
Despite the decline of whaling, Lekeitio continued to be a town built around fishing. The 19th century marked a new chapter in its history with the arrival of its first tourists. Aristocrats like Queen Isabel II and the Empress of Austria-Hungary, Zita, were among the early royal visitors who frequented the town, helping to establish Lekeitio as a popular destination.
Today, Lekeitio undergoes a transformation each summer, shifting from a quiet town to a lively yet laid-back destination. While winter brings back its peaceful charm, the summer, as well as the spring and early autumn months, see the beaches brimming with tourists eager to experience the beauty and serenity of this coastal gem.
Things to Do in Lekeitio
#1 Walk to Isla de San Nicolás at Low Tide
One of the most unforgettable experiences you can have in Lekeitio is a walk to Isla de San Nicolás. This captivating tidal island is truly the heart of the town and the main reason to visit.
The island’s history is wrapped in mystery and legend, only adding to its allure. It is said to have once served as a sanctuary for monks and hermits seeking peace and solitude far from the world. Some stories even claim that lepers were cared for in isolation on the island. And didn’t a fort once stand here to defend against invaders? Today, the island is uninhabited, drawing mainly visitors from Lekeitio.
You can only reach Isla de San Nicolás by boat or at low tide, when a raised pathway appears, offering a rare chance to walk across. Be cautious, though—the path can be slippery due to water, algae, and vegetation. As you make your way carefully, you’ll be charmed by the sight of sunbathing crabs scuttling off the stone promenade at the sound of your footsteps.
If you’d prefer a shorter route or find the slippery path uncomfortable, you can also access the island from Karraspio Beach, where a brief wade through the seawater will take you there.
Once you reach the island, you’re greeted with breathtaking views of the Cantabrian Sea and the dramatic coastline that surrounds Lekeitio. A path guides you to the summit, where you’ll pass the crumbling remnants of old buildings, each telling a story of the past. After taking in the views from the top, you can continue your walk to the far end of the island, where you’ll find the most stunning panoramic views of the sea.
It’s essential to keep an eye on the tides. Make sure to check the tide times and ensure it’s not yet high tide when you’re ready to head back to the beach. While you might be able to swim back to shore in the summer months, it’s not recommended during the rest of the year. The current tide schedules are available at the tourist office in Lekeitio, so be sure to stop by and check them before you embark on your adventure.
#2 Admire the Monumental Church
Standing proudly at the heart of the town is the magnificent Basilica de la Asunción de Nuestra Señora, a true architectural gem that reflects the town’s rich history. Built in the latter half of the 15th century on the site of an ancient Roman temple, this vast Gothic church is an awe-inspiring sight in a town with only around 7,000 residents.
The church captivates not only with its impressive size but also with its stunning eastern façade and intricately decorated interior. The true highlight of the Basilica de la Asunción de Nuestra Señora is its remarkable 1514 altarpiece, which holds the distinction of being one of the largest in Spain. Equally striking are the towering buttresses and graceful flying arches that support the church’s structure, creating a dramatic architectural masterpiece.
#3 Explore the Old Town
Tucked behind the lively harbor is the delightful old town of Lekeitio. Though small in size, its charming streets are perfect for a leisurely stroll, offering plenty to explore. Be sure to admire the town hall and the graceful 17th-century Oxangoiti Palace, located at Independencia Square. Wander through the picturesque Arranegi Kalea and Ezpeleta streets, where you’ll discover more beautiful townhouses, ancient towers, a historic monastery, and other captivating landmarks that showcase the town’s rich history and heritage..
#4 Enjoy a Day at the Beach
The beaches of Lekeitio have been constantly reshaped by the forces of the Lea River and the shifting tides of the ocean. Where the river meets the sea, vast stretches of sandy beaches have emerged. What makes these beaches truly captivating is how the tides dramatically alter their appearance: at low tide, they open up into wide, sprawling expanses of sand, while at high tide, they shrink into narrow, rocky strips.
Isuntza Beach, the town’s main beach, sits right next to the charming old town and the harbor. When the tide is out, an elevated path is revealed, guiding visitors to the enchanting island of San Nicolás. On the other side of the river mouth lies Karraspio Beach, a long stretch of sand that, at low tide, allows visitors to wade through the shallows and make their way toward the island. Finally, La Salvaje Beach, the smallest of Lekeitio’s beaches, only appears at low tide and is located right at the mouth of the river.
#5 Look at the Colorful Boats in the Harbor
One of the most captivating features of Lekeitio is its vibrant harbor, nestled right beside the Church of Asunción de Nuestra Señora. While the era of large fishing boats has become a thing of the past, the harbor still exudes its timeless charm. Dozens of small boats, painted in a rainbow of colors, gently bob on the water, adding to the town’s picturesque appeal.
Along the harbor’s edge, a lively promenade stretches beside the quay, lined with charming narrow houses, each showcasing colorful balconies and traditional wooden shutters. This lively area is brimming with bars, restaurants, and cafés, making it the perfect place to unwind. Be sure to savor the local pinxtos, the Basque twist on tapas, where fresh seafood takes center stage in many of the mouthwatering dishes.
