One of the most remarkable sights in the Basque Country of Northern Spain is undoubtedly the Sanctuary of Arantzazu (in Spanish: Santuario de Aránzazu). The church’s striking architecture and its scenic location in the Aizkorri mountains make Arantzazu a truly impressive landmark. Despite its allure, this destination remains largely unknown and off the typical tourist track — truly a hidden gem! In this blog post, we’ll explore the unique architecture and rich history of this lesser-known site.
Why Arantzazu Is Worth Visiting?
Arantzazu is a rare blend of religious significance, stunning mountainous landscapes with breathtaking views, and distinctive architecture. The building itself is like a masterpiece set amidst the mountains. We were instantly captivated by the unusual design of the basilica, which makes Arantzazu stand out from other churches and sacred places.
Interestingly, locals frequent this location not just for the church but for the beautiful natural surroundings. Although we found the sanctuary almost empty of visitors, the parking lot was completely full. The area is a popular spot for hiking and mountain biking, attracting many Spaniards, especially during the weekends.
The Virgin Mary Among the Thorns
The current church dates back to the 1950s, but the history of Arantzazu goes much further back. Legend has it that in 1468, the Virgin of Arantzazu appeared to the shepherd Rodrigo de Balanzategui right here. He discovered the Virgin Mary in a thorn bush and exclaimed in Basque, “Arantzan zu?!” which translates to “You, among the thorns?!” This exclamation eventually named this sacred spot.
The sanctuary has a tumultuous history, marked by multiple reconstructions following devastating fires. The original structures were destroyed by fire three times, each leading to a phase of rebuilding and renewal.
The Controversial Architecture
The most dramatic transformation occurred in 1950, after the fire of 1834 that razed the original building. This event sparked the construction of the new basilica, a project led by architects Francisco Javier Sáenz de Oiza and Luis Laorga. Their innovative design included modern architectural concepts and featured artworks from other notable artists. Particularly eye-catching are Jorge Oteiza’s sculptures of the apostles and Nestor Basterretxea’s paintings in the crypt.
The bell tower, soaring to 44 meters, features thorn-like elements that nod to the Virgin Mary’s original appearance in a thorn bush. This distinctive feature makes the sanctuary stand out. The unique stained-glass windows, crafted by Javier Alvarez de Eulate, are stunning, especially when bathed in sunlight.
The sanctuary’s modern and avant-garde design was a subject of controversy at its time. The bold architectural decisions, which broke away from traditional religious construction styles, marked a progressive new approach to religious architecture.
Practical Information
Location of Arantzazu
The sanctuary lies just outside the quaint town of Oñati, in the province of Gipuzkoa, Basque Country. Oñati is positioned 75 km southwest of San Sebastián and 65 km southeast of Bilbao, nestled in a gorgeous valley renowned for its prestigious university and the ornate Plaza de Los Fueros, featuring a Baroque town hall and the convent of Santa Ana.
The journey from Oñati to the Sanctuary of Arantzazu is an experience in itself. A picturesque drive along a beautiful mountain road showcases the stunning landscape of the Basque Country.
Cost of Visiting Arantzazu
Entry to both the church building and the crypt is free, so visiting is very accessible. Make sure not to miss the crypt; you can find its entrance outside the main door, marked by a sign directing visitors.
Parking Information
A large parking area is available right in front of the basilica, with additional parking earlier along the road, all of which is free.
For those traveling in vehicles longer than 5 meters, like our camper, designated parking spots are marked. It’s just a few minutes’ walk from these parking areas to the basilica. Many visitors in campers choose to stay overnight, drawn by the stunning views, an option we found quite understandable and appealing.
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