The Ruta de los Volcanes is one of the most impressive hikes on La Palma and a true showcase of the island’s dramatic landscape. The trail leads you along the volcanic ridge in the south of the island, running from Refugio del Pilar to Los Canarios. As you walk, you pass deep craters, wide stretches of black lava, and ancient volcanic cones that have been shaped by centuries of eruptions. The scenery changes constantly, and on clear days the views stretch all the way to Tenerife and La Gomera, offering a panorama that stays with you long after the hike is over.
This route forms part of the long-distance trail GR 131 and takes you straight through the volcanic heart of La Palma. You start your hike in a green pine forest, where the air is fresh and the path feels almost gentle. Slowly, the landscape becomes drier and more rugged, with rough volcanic rock and striking formations dominating the scenery. The hike is challenging and requires a good level of fitness, but for many hikers it becomes the absolute highlight of their trip to La Palma. It is a route for travelers who love nature, enjoy an active day outdoors, and want to experience something truly special.
In this blog, you will read about what you can expect along the trail, how to best prepare for and approach the route, and why the Ruta de los Volcanes is a hike you should not miss during your journey to La Palma.
What is the Ruta de los Volcanes?
The Ruta de los Volcanes is one of the most famous hiking routes on La Palma and a true symbol of the island’s wild nature. The trail leads you across the Cumbre Vieja, a long mountain ridge shaped by volcanoes, deep craters, and wide stretches of solidified lava. It is a landscape that feels raw and powerful from the very first steps. Most hikers begin at Refugio del Pilar, roughly in the center of the island, and finish between 17 and 24 kilometers later in Los Canarios, in the far south of La Palma.
This route is part of the GR 131 long-distance trail and gives a clear picture of how young and active La Palma really is. As you walk, it can feel as though the ground beneath your feet is still warm, surrounded by craters and ash fields that are only a few decades old. Along the way, you pass impressive landmarks such as Hoyo Negro, which erupted in 1949, and the Volcán Martín from 1646. This is far more than an ordinary hike. It is a journey straight through the volcanic heart of the island, where the power of nature is visible at every step.
The route step by step
#1 From Refugio del Pilar to Las Deseadas
The hike begins at Refugio del Pilar, a calm and scenic spot in the heart of the island with a parking area, an information center and several picnic tables. You start at an elevation of more than 1,400 meters, so the air already feels fresh and cool. From the first steps, the trail climbs gently through a forest of Canary Island pines. There is plenty of shade along the way, and the wide, well-maintained forest paths make this opening section feel pleasant and relaxed.
After a few kilometers, the scenery slowly starts to change. The pine trees become lower and more scattered, and open areas of rocks and volcanic sand begin to appear. This is where the landscape truly opens up, and the first sweeping views come into sight. You can look out toward the Caldera de Taburiente and, on clear days, even see Tenerife rising on the horizon.
A little further on, you arrive at Hoyo Negro, a deep and striking crater formed during an eruption in 1949. The trail passes right alongside it, following a narrow but clearly marked path that is easy to walk. After passing the crater, the route dips slightly before climbing again toward the ridge. After several kilometers of steady ascent, you reach the summit of Las Deseadas, the highest point of the route. From here, you are treated to a complete 360-degree view over the mountain ridge, the ocean, and the rugged outlines of the island. It is an ideal place to pause for a short break and enjoy the scenery.
Most hiking guides suggest allowing 2 to 3 hours for this section. Sebastiaan completed this first part in just over one hour.
#2 From Las Deseadas to Los Canarios
From Las Deseadas, the trail continues along the mountain ridge and begins its long descent toward the south of the island. From here, the route is mostly downhill, with a total drop of around 1,500 meters. The scenery changes quickly, and you step into the most volcanic part of the hike. The ground beneath your feet becomes black, loose, and dusty, and every step reminds you of the island’s fiery past. You walk across old lava flows, pass solidified craters, and cross wide ash plains where almost nothing is able to grow.
This section is one of the roughest and most demanding parts of the hike, but the views make the effort more than worthwhile. As you descend, you are treated to wide and open views on both sides of the island. On clear days, you can even see La Gomera lying on the horizon, adding an extra sense of scale to the landscape.
One of the highlights along the way is Volcán Martín, a striking volcanic cone that you can explore up close if you choose to take a short detour from the main trail. As you continue, the lava fields appear younger and more dramatic, with large stretches of black rock and ash where only the smallest plants have managed to survive. A welcome place to pause and rest is the Fuente de los Roques recreation area, located at around 1,200 meters. After the final kilometers along dusty paths, you eventually reach the village of Los Canarios, which lies at approximately 725 meters above sea level. For many hikers, this is the natural end point of the route.
Sebastiaan also chose to end his hike here. He spent just over four hours completing the walk in total. The long and steep descent on this section placed a heavy strain on his knees, which is why he decided to finish the hike in Los Canarios.
#3 From Los Canarios to Fuencaliente
If you still have energy left at the end of the hike, you can extend the route from Los Canarios all the way to the lighthouse of Fuencaliente and the salt pans along the coast. This additional section is around 6 kilometers long and includes a steep descent of roughly 700 meters. Due to the steep slopes, loose volcanic ground, and the lack of shade, this part of the hike is physically more demanding than it might seem at first.
Before beginning the descent, it is well worth taking some time to visit Volcán de San Antonio. This volcano lies just outside the village and can be explored via a small visitor center. For an entrance fee of 8 euros, you can walk along the edge of the crater and gain a clear impression of the volcano’s structure. On one side, you look straight down into the crater itself, while on the other side you can see vineyards that have taken root in the fertile volcanic soil.
Afterwards, the trail continues toward Teneguía, one of the youngest volcanoes on La Palma, which last erupted in 1971. This section leads you through a landscape that feels almost otherworldly, with black volcanic sand, ash, and sharp rock formations stretching in every direction. The descent is not technically difficult, but it is steep and can be tiring, especially when walking in the sun. Along the way, you are rewarded with wide views of the south coast, the ocean, and the rough lava landscape surrounding you.
The hike finishes at the lighthouse of Fuencaliente, next to the salt pans with pink salt pools where salt is still harvested today. It is a rugged yet impressive final destination after a day filled with volcanic highlights.
For Sebastiaan, the descent to Los Canarios was more than enough. I continued the final section downhill together with our daughter, although it proved quite challenging for her at just four and a half years old.
What you will encounter along the way
The Ruta de los Volcanes takes you through a landscape of extraordinary variety. In a single hike, you can experience the full spectrum of La Palma’s terrain, moving from dense, shaded pine forests to open lava fields and vast volcanic craters. It is these striking contrasts that make the route so memorable and truly one of a kind.
The first section of the trail winds mostly through a forest of Canary Island pines. These trees flourish on volcanic soil and are perfectly adapted to dry conditions and strong sunlight. The area remains relatively green, with shady paths that offer relief from the sun and occasional views of the northern mountains, creating a calm and inviting start to the hike.
After passing Las Deseadas, the scenery transforms dramatically. You step into a stark black landscape of volcanic ash, rocks, and sand, where plant life is almost nonexistent. The ground is rugged and unpredictable, formed from ancient lava flows, volcanic debris, and hardened fragments. Everywhere you look, the traces of volcanic activity are visible: deep craters, narrow fissures, solidified lava walls, and cone-shaped volcanoes that rise sharply from the terrain.
Along the way, you will encounter several remarkable landmarks. Hoyo Negro, a deep crater created during the 1949 eruption, is one of the most striking sights. Volcán Martín stands out with its reddish-brown slopes, a reminder of the island’s fiery history. If you continue all the way to the coast, you will also come across Teneguía, one of La Palma’s youngest volcanoes, which last erupted in 1971. This hike offers a rare opportunity to witness the raw power of nature up close. You move from lush, green forests into dramatic, barren landscapes that have been shaped by fire, lava, and time, making every step an unforgettable part of the journey.
Throughout the entire hike, you are constantly rewarded with stunning views of the ocean, and on clear days, the sight extends to other Canary Islands such as El Hierro, La Gomera, and Tenerife. Since the trail mostly follows the mountain ridge, you often find yourself with simultaneous views of both the east and west coasts of La Palma. The panoramas are truly breathtaking, especially when you are walking above the clouds and the island spreads out in every direction beneath you, giving a sense of scale and wonder that stays with you long after the hike is over.
One additional tip: is to stop in Los Canarios and visit a local bodega to sample the wines from the vineyards surrounding the Teneguía volcano. The combination of fertile volcanic soil and sun-soaked slopes produces wines with a distinct character and flavor, offering a perfect way to savor the essence of the volcanic landscape you have just explored.
Frequently Asked Questions about the Ruta de los Volcanes
How difficult is the Ruta de los Volcanes?
The route is physically demanding, mainly because of the distance, which ranges from 17 to 24 kilometers, and the significant changes in elevation along the way. You will walk long stretches over loose volcanic sand, climb steep slopes, and cross exposed areas with little shelter. Despite these challenges, the trail is not technically difficult, so it does not require advanced hiking skills. For anyone who hikes regularly and maintains a reasonable level of fitness, the route is very manageable. Make sure to take plenty of breaks, pace yourself, and start early so you can enjoy the hike without feeling rushed.
How long does the hike take?
On average, the full route from Refugio del Pilar to Los Canarios takes about 6 to 8 hours, depending on your pace and how often you stop to rest or take photos. If you continue all the way to the lighthouse of Fuencaliente, you can easily spend around 9 hours on the trail. Sebastiaan, however, completed the section from El Pilar to Los Canarios in just over four hours, including a lunch break and several photo stops. This shows that it is possible to move at a faster pace if you are well-prepared, energetic, and ready for a steady hike.
What should you bring?
Be sure to carry plenty of water, at least two liters per person, as there are very few water points along the trail. The only reliable spot is at Fuente de los Roques. It is also a good idea to bring your own food and snacks, as there are no shops or cafés along the way. Sun protection is essential, so remember sunscreen, a hat or cap, and sunglasses if needed. The ridge can be quite windy, so a light jacket or windbreaker is highly recommended. Sturdy hiking shoes with good grip are essential for walking safely and comfortably across the volcanic terrain, which can be loose and uneven in places.
Are there facilities along the way?
Facilities along the trail are extremely limited, so you need to be completely self-sufficient. There are no toilets, cafés, or shops until the end of the route, at Los Canarios. You will, however, pass the recreation area of Fuente de los Roques at around 1,200 meters altitude. This area offers picnic tables, toilets, water taps, and barbecue spots, making it an excellent place to rest, refill your bottles, and take a proper break before continuing along the volcanic ridge.
How to arrange transportation
The Ruta de los Volcanes is a linear trail, which means it starts at one point and ends at another. Most hikers choose to park their car in Los Canarios and take a taxi to the starting point at Refugio del Pilar. This way, you can complete the hike and return directly to your own car without worrying about complicated transport arrangements. We followed this method ourselves. We booked a taxi by phone the day before and paid around €45. Another option, which is slightly cheaper, is to take a bus from Los Canarios to El Paso and then transfer to another bus from El Paso to Refugio del Pilar, although this requires more planning and timing.
Can you hike the route in the opposite direction?
Yes, it is possible to hike from south to north, but it is rarely done. This direction is far more demanding because the climbs are much steeper. Most hikers prefer to go from north to south, as it feels more natural and allows the views to gradually open up toward the ocean as you move along the ridge. Hiking this way gives you the chance to fully appreciate the dramatic volcanic landscapes and creates a sense of unfolding scenery that many consider the best way to experience the trail.
Is it possible to hike only part of the route?
Absolutely. You can, for example, start at Refugio del Pilar and turn back halfway, or continue as far as the recreation area of Fuente de los Roques. Like Refugio del Pilar, Fuente de los Roques is easily accessible by car or taxi, making it a perfect option for a shorter, more manageable hike while still experiencing some of the trail’s dramatic landscapes.
Another popular choice is to hike just the southern section, from Los Canarios to the lighthouse of Fuencaliente. This part of the route is shorter, yet it remains steep and remarkably impressive, with sweeping views of volcanic terrain and the ocean. A major advantage of this option is that you can catch a bus back from the lighthouse to Los Canarios, which makes you less dependent on taxis. Keep in mind that mobile reception is limited in Fuencaliente, so arranging transport from there can be tricky, while Los Canarios has reliable service and makes planning easier.
What is the best time of day to start?
The ideal time to begin the hike is early in the morning, especially if you plan to cover the entire route. Morning light is softer and more beautiful, the temperatures are cooler, and you avoid walking across exposed lava fields under the harsh midday sun. Starting early also gives you extra time to take breaks or slow your pace if needed without feeling rushed. Sebastiaan, for example, was picked up by a taxi in Los Canarios at 7:30 a.m. and set off from El Pilar at 8:15 a.m., giving him the best possible conditions to enjoy the trail comfortably and fully appreciate the volcanic landscapes along the way.
When is the best time to walk the route?
The Ruta de los Volcanes can be enjoyed year-round, but conditions vary with the seasons. In summer, the southern sections of the trail can become very hot, making the hike more exhausting. In winter, the ridge can be cool and windy, which may make walking less comfortable. Spring and autumn are usually the most pleasant times to hike, offering milder temperatures, clearer skies, and ideal conditions for taking in the stunning views.
We visited La Palma in November, which brought quite variable weather. During the first part of the hike, Sebastiaan walked through low clouds, which limited visibility. Fortunately, this section of the trail already offers fewer views, and once the clouds cleared, the scenery opened up dramatically, revealing the volcanic landscapes in all their striking beauty and giving us a true sense of the island’s raw power.
Do you have to pay an entrance fee?
The hike itself is completely free, so you can enjoy the trail without worrying about any costs. If you want to visit Volcán de San Antonio, which is located near Los Canarios, there is a small fee of €8 to enter the visitor center and walk along the path around the crater. For transportation, we took a taxi, which cost around €45, making it an easy and convenient way to reach the start of the trail.
Is the hike suitable for children?
That depends on their age, experience, and physical endurance. The full route is long and quite demanding, so it is not suitable for very young children, such as ours. Older children who are accustomed to hiking and comfortable with elevation changes can manage it, especially if you focus on a shorter section. For instance, the stretch from Los Canarios to the Teneguía volcano is a great option for children. I was able to walk this part with our four-and-a-half-year-old, though it remained a bit challenging at times. This shorter section still offers impressive volcanic landscapes while being more manageable for younger hikers.
