Welcome to Grottaglie, one of Puglia’s most creative gems, where centuries-old crafts and contemporary art effortlessly intertwine. This charming town is internationally celebrated for its rich ceramic tradition, yet it also surprises visitors with its colorful street art, historic churches, and impressive caves. Here, you can lose yourself in the winding streets, pop into local workshops, and watch skilled artisans in action, all while being surrounded by the earthy aromas of clay and paint.
In this blog, we’ll guide you through the must-see highlights of Grottaglie. From where to find its iconic ceramics to uncovering the intriguing stories hidden in its streets, we’ll help you experience all that this one-of-a-kind town has to offer.
What is Grottaglie Known for?
Grottaglie is where clay and creativity truly come to life. Nestled in Puglia, this town has been the heart of ceramic craftsmanship for centuries, earning its reputation as the “ceramic capital of Southern Italy.” At the center of it all is the Quartiere delle Ceramiche, or Ceramic District, where the tradition of pottery thrives. Here, the air is filled with the hum of spinning wheels, the warmth of glowing kilns, and the sight of vibrant shelves brimming with beautifully crafted plates, vases, and figurines. Take your time to wander through the district, watch skilled artisans at work, or even join a workshop to create your own unique piece. And if you’re looking for the perfect souvenir, don’t miss the pumo—a ceramic flower bud that symbolizes good luck and prosperity.
But Grottaglie has much more to offer than just pottery. Thanks to the FAME Festival, an art event that once attracted top international street artists, the town has blossomed into a hub for graffiti and murals. As you stroll through the streets, you’ll find colorful and striking pieces of art that infuse the town with a lively, modern energy.
Then there are the gravine—the impressive caves and ravines that surround Grottaglie. Even within the Ceramic District, you’ll discover one of these hidden ravines, now sheltered with caves that house some of the town’s most charming ceramic shops, offering an unexpected and delightful experience.
The Ceramics Tradition of Grottaglie
Grottaglie and ceramics go hand in hand, creating a bond that has lasted for centuries. This charming town, where pottery, clay, and kilns are deeply woven into its identity, exudes a strong sense of tradition that can be felt at every turn.
The name “Grottaglie” comes from the Latin “cryptae alia,” which means “many caves.” These caves, once used as hiding places, eventually transformed into bustling workshops where skilled artisans shaped clay into beautiful works of art. Thanks to the rich clay deposits surrounding the town, Grottaglie grew into the ceramic capital of Southern Italy—a title it proudly holds to this day.
At the heart of this ceramic legacy lies the Quartiere delle Ceramiche, or Ceramic District. Here, you’ll find a labyrinth of workshops, often nestled within ancient caves, where artisans continue to craft everything from pots to plates and intricate sculptures by hand. The air is alive with the whirring of spinning wheels, the warm glow of ovens, and the scent of brushes and glazes. Many of these workshops invite visitors to watch the process up close, and some even offer the chance to try your hand at creating your very own ceramic piece. It’s an enjoyable experience and a great way to take home a truly unique souvenir.
One iconic ceramic piece you’ll come across time and time again is the “pumo.” Shaped like a flower bud, this symbolic creation represents luck and prosperity. You’ll see them on balconies, window sills, and gates all over Puglia, often painted in bright, striking colors or in a gleaming white. Many of these pumo are crafted in Grottaglie, and the local shops are filled with them. Another beloved item is the “bianchi di Grottaglie” — simple yet elegant white ceramics, such as plates and vases, that exude timeless style. If you’re looking for something more colorful, you’ll find bowls and plates decorated with traditional patterns in hues of blue, yellow, and manganese brown. Whatever your preference, there’s no shortage of stunning pieces to choose from.
For a deeper dive into the history of ceramics in Grottaglie, make sure to visit the Museo della Ceramica at the Castello Episcopio. This historic castle not only offers breathtaking views of the town, but it also houses a collection of over 400 ceramic pieces. From ancient pottery to contemporary designs, the museum beautifully illustrates the evolution of the craft through the ages.
As if all that wasn’t enough, Grottaglie also hosts a lively ceramics festival every August. The streets are filled with colorful stalls, live demonstrations, and fascinating exhibitions. It’s the perfect opportunity to shop for one-of-a-kind ceramics, join hands-on workshops, and watch skilled artisans at work, creating their beautiful pieces right before your eyes. Around the holiday season, the town also showcases a special ceramic exhibition. During our visit in early January, we had the pleasure of stumbling upon a delightful display of ceramic nativity scenes in the exhibition space next to the tourist office. It was a perfect little festive surprise!
Things to Do in Grottaglie
#1 Quartiere delle Ceramiche
Welcome to the vibrant heart of Grottaglie: the Quartiere delle Ceramiche. This is where ceramics aren’t just an art form—they’re part of the very fabric of the town. You’ll literally find yourself surrounded by stunning pieces everywhere you go—on every shelf, around every corner, and behind every door, a new masterpiece awaits. Situated on the edge of the old town, around Via Crispi, this district has been the epicenter of ceramic production for centuries.
What makes this place truly unique? Many of the workshops are carved right into the caves, creating an atmosphere that you won’t find anywhere else.
At the center of the district lies Via Francesco Crispi, a street that gently curves around the old castle. The nearby streets, Via Santa Sofia and Via Caravaggio, are also part of this charming ceramic quarter. As you stroll through the area, you’ll be embraced by the earthy scent of clay and paint, and you’ll pass countless shops brimming with beautiful ceramics. The workshops are open to visitors, so you can watch artisans at work, ask questions, and perhaps even try your hand at creating your own ceramic piece in a workshop. Everywhere you turn, you’ll find colorful vases, elegant bowls, and the famous pumi—charming ceramic flower buds said to bring good luck.
In August, the district transforms into a lively festival ground for the annual ceramics market, where the streets buzz with activity. But even during the rest of the year, there’s so much to discover. Many ateliers feature small exhibitions and offer one-of-a-kind pieces that you won’t easily find elsewhere. Exploring here is an absolute delight, especially in the unique cave settings where most of the ceramic shops along Via Francesco Crispi are located. Whether you’re an art enthusiast or simply in search of a beautiful addition for your windowsill, you’re sure to leave with something special.
#2 The Street Art of Grottaglie
If you thought Grottaglie was all about ceramics, you’re in for a surprise—you haven’t seen its walls. The town is also celebrated as an open-air gallery, brimming with street art. This vibrant movement started with the FAME Festival, an art project that, between 2008 and 2012, attracted international artists to Grottaglie. And no, these weren’t your typical graffiti artists. Renowned names like Blu and Erica il Cane left their creative mark on the town’s walls.
So, what can you expect to find? Picture surreal figures, witty scenes, and thought-provoking social messages, all painted across the city. Some pieces are subtle and tucked away, while others boldly cover entire building facades. We’d read on several blogs that you could grab a map of the street art at the tourist office, but, unfortunately, that’s not the case. However, they can mark a few of the works on the regular tourist map for you.
To be honest, Grottaglie’s murals are a pleasant surprise, but they’re not particularly impressive. While it’s fun to discover this playful element scattered throughout the town, we wouldn’t say Grottaglie ranks among the most stunning street art cities in Europey. Nonetheless, it’s a quirky addition to the town’s charm. That said, they add a charming, playful touch to the town’s character, giving it a unique vibe.
#3 The Old Town
The historic center of Grottaglie feels like a maze you’re eager to get lost in. Narrow streets twist and turn between whitewashed houses, balconies spill over with vibrant flowers, and cozy squares are lined with benches where locals gather to chat. Everywhere you look, you’re surrounded by the town’s rich history. From medieval city gates to ornate baroque facades, there’s always something captivating waiting to be discovered.
Begin your journey at Porta San Giorgio, one of the ancient gateways to the town near the castle. From there, meander through churches, picturesque squares, and quirky boutique shops. The lively Piazza Regina Margherita is the perfect spot to sit back with an espresso or enjoy a refreshing aperitivo. And don’t forget to look up—many of the balconies are adorned with the famous ceramic pumi, adding a splash of color to the town’s charming atmosphere.
Grottaglie’s old town is compact and mostly car-free, so you can take your time and explore at your own pace. Make sure to wear sturdy shoes with good grip, as some of the streets are paved with smooth stones that can be a little slippery. And if you have the chance, stay into the evening when the street lamps flicker to life, casting a soft glow that transforms the town into a magical, almost dreamlike setting.
#4 Casa Vestita
Casa Vestita is a hidden treasure you simply can’t miss. Tucked away in the heart of the ceramic district, this historic building is a captivating fusion of museum, gallery, and archaeological site. It’s a place where history truly comes to life. While carrying out renovation work, the owners stumbled upon a series of extraordinary archaeological discoveries that transformed the house into a fascinating museum of history.
The most remarkable find was a floor dating back to Greek times, around 2,400 years ago. As if that weren’t enough, further digging uncovered a medieval rock church from the 13th century. Likely concealed during the persecution of the Knights Templar in Europe, this cave church offers an exceptional glimpse into the religious practices of that era. The walls of the church are adorned with stunning frescoes and icons, many of which have been remarkably well-preserved. Today, these treasures are displayed in the private museum of Casa Vestita, where visitors can explore collections of ceramics alongside these incredible archaeological artifacts.
Puglia Tip: Did you know you can also visit cave churches in Monopoli? Be sure to check out our blog on Monopoli’s key attractions to discover more about these intriguing Templar churches.
Practical information: Visits are available by appointment only. Admission is € 10, and the tour lasts about an hour.
#5 Castello Episcopio and Museo della Ceramica
The Castello Episcopio rises majestically above Grottaglie, a true monument to the town’s rich history. Built in the 14th century as a formidable fortress, it later served as a summer residence for the archbishops of Taranto. Today, it houses the Museo della Ceramica, where you can explore the fascinating ceramic heritage that has shaped this town for centuries.
Inside, you’ll discover ceramics in every conceivable form—from simple, everyday pots and plates to intricately decorated pieces once crafted for the town’s elite. The collection ranges from prehistoric finds to modern masterpieces, offering a complete picture of how ceramic style and craftsmanship have evolved over time.
The castle itself is just as remarkable. Its thick, imposing stone walls and sturdy towers provide a glimpse into a time when defense was far more important than comfort. From the upper floors, you’ll be treated to breathtaking views of the town below and the surrounding valleys, making for a truly memorable experience.
Practical details: The museum is open every day except Mondays. Entrance is only a few euros, and audio guides are available in several languages. Be sure to take the opportunity to explore the nearby ceramic district, which lies just a short walk from the castle.
#6 The Cathedral
In the heart of Grottaglie, nestled in a bustling square where daily life plays out, stands the Chiesa Matrice—officially named the Collegiata Maria Santissima Annunziata. This cathedral is an intriguing mix of Romanesque and Gothic styles, and for a Southern Italian church, its design is refreshingly simple and understated.
Inside, the atmosphere is serene, with minimalistic whitewashed walls that exude calm. But the tone shifts as you cast your eyes toward the chapels on the right side. These are beautifully decorated with marble altars, religious sculptures, and vibrant frescoes. The most impressive of all is the grand chapel, crafted entirely from white marble, situated just beside the entrance. Its luxurious, ornate design stands in sharp contrast to the rest of the church, especially the main altar, creating a striking and unexpected visual impact.
#7 Gravine di Grottaglie
Just outside Grottaglie, another adventure awaits: the gravine. These deep ravines, shaped over centuries by the erosion of limestone, were once natural refuges for early settlers. In times long past, people carved out homes, chapels, and storage spaces within the cliffs. You can still see remnants of murals and inscriptions, which lend the area a truly mystical, otherworldly feel.
The Gravina di San Giorgio is a gorge that has been filled in, running alongside Via Crispi, the main street of the ceramic district. This is the most accessible place to explore the ancient caves. Once, a defensive moat circled the castle here, but today it’s a bustling street. Hidden behind unassuming façades, you’ll find remarkable caves. Many of these caves were repurposed as workshops for potters, and now they house ceramic shops where you can step inside and explore their fascinating history.
Beyond Grottaglie, there are even more ravines to discover, like the Gravina di Riggio. Here, you can experience a truly untouched natural landscape, offering a stark contrast to the ceramic caves and a peaceful retreat into nature.
#8 The Churches and Monasteries of Grottaglie
Grottaglie is overflowing with churches and monasteries, each offering its own unique window into the town’s rich history. Begin your journey at the Chiesa di San Francesco de Geronimo, a church built in 1837 in honor of the saint who was born here. Inside, you’ll discover his relics, carefully preserved in an altar—a gift from King Ferdinand IV of Bourbon.
Just a short stroll away is the Chiesa del Carmine, a charming 16th-century church that is home to an extraordinary nativity scene created by Stefano da Putignano in 1530. This isn’t your typical nativity—it’s a stunning stone masterpiece, filled with exquisite details that will transport you to the Christmas season, no matter the time of year.
Next, make your way to the Monastery of Santa Chiara, built in 1587. This peaceful place is home to a marble altar that looks like something straight out of a royal palace. The side altars are equally impressive, with vivid tableaux that tell stories from the 17th and 19th centuries.
A little further from the center, you’ll find the Chiesa di San Francesco di Paola, a 16th-century church decorated with vibrant frescoes. The vaulted ceilings are painted with scenes from the life of Saint Francesco di Paola, creating the feeling of stepping into a living Renaissance painting.
For a completely different experience, visit the former Capuchin Monastery. This 16th-century building now hosts contemporary art exhibitions, but its original architecture remains intact, offering a fascinating blend of the old and the new.
